(Warning: super long post dead ahead)
1 whole month. I can hardly believe that. It's strange, but it feels both like I've been here forever & like I just got here yesterday afternoon. So much has happened. I've seen so many things. I've met so many awesome people. Yet, to quote Steve Miller: Time keeps on slippin' (slippin' slippin') into the future. I'm 1/9th of the way through my time in Paris. Let's hope the next 9th goes as well as the first.
A lot has happened in the last week. I celebrated my birthday on friday, saw some sights over the weekend, trudged my way through classes during the week, and even had a couple interviews sprinkled in here and there.
First up: 21 Jump Street
Friday was my birthday, y'all. 21 years old. Woot. Going into this day, I had been thinking about how being in Europe does two things to a 21st birthday: 1. It pretty much negates the coolness this birthday has in the states, as no one really cares how old you are in France -- anyone can drink. But 2. It makes it sooo much cooler, as you can say to all your friends, "Hey, you stumbled around Chicago on your birthday? Well, I stumbled around Europe on mine." Right?
Anyway, after a pretty mediocre day, I met up with a group of IES friends at the Oberkampf stop on the Métro. We found a nice establishment at which to spend the evening. After a few hours of shenanigans, we decided that we really wanted to go watch the live broadcast of the presidential debate. With the time difference, it started at 3 am in Paris. So we found our way to the pub down by the Louvre which had advertised the debate. It was pretty crowded with fellow Americans and Europeans interested in politics. It was definitely an interesting experience. It was pretty clear that the crowd in the pub leaned way to the left, cheering Obama on and laughing off McCain's comments. But I had a great time. It was exactly what I needed.
That weekend, I decided to do some serious sight-seeing. On saturday, I met up with Caroline & Monica from IES (as well as Monica's sister, Melissa, and her friend from the U of Chicago group in Paris) for a trip to the Conciergerie and Ste. Chappelle. They're both located in the Palais de Justice on Île de la Cité. The Conciergerie is a former prison, acting as the final stop before execution for many unfortunate French convicts, including Marie Antoinette. The museum has done a very good job maintaining the feel of the prison, even mocking up cells with creepy mannequins.
Next, we headed over to Ste. Chappelle, a beautiful church renowned for its gorgeous stained glass. There are two main chapels in the church -- one on each of its two levels. The lower level doesn't have any stained glass, but its painted walls and arches are definitely impressive. The upper level is the real knockout. When you step out from the staircase tucked in the corner of the room, the huge stained glass windows lining the walls are almost too much to take in at once. Incredible. There are chairs along the perimeter of the room, allowing tourists to sit and gaze at whichever side the sunlight happens to be filtering through. It really is an amazing sight.
In my eyes, the only real fault of Ste. Chappelle is the fact that it is no longer a real church. It is simply a pretty tourist attraction. On the lower level, instead of pews or even any type of seating, you are greeted with a long bank of stalls selling books, pictures, postcards, etc. It's purely commercial. It's sad, but at least the building is being maintained and protected.
On sunday, I decided to take advantage of the nice weather and made the long trek out to the Château de Versailles. To get there, I had to take the RER (a train mainly used for Paris' suburbs, like Chicago's Metra). After the hour+ trip, I stepped off the train and walked up to the château, about 10 minutes from the station. I waited in the ticket line, then toured the palace, opting to forego the headsets offering a detailed tour. I figured I could appreciate the palace without them. Man, Versailles is beautiful. Very epic. The rooms are meticulously kept, and the art is astounding. One downfall: There is an exhibition running through December of work by Jeff Koons, a contemporary American artist. His stuff is pretty cool, and I could definitely see myself enjoying it maybe in a modern art gallery. But it just feels out of place in Versailles. The palace is very well put together, and in the style of classicist art, it is complete. Adding to or taking away from the palace throws it off. So needless to say, I didn't enjoy most of the huge balloon sculptures or wooden statues sprinkled around the château. It kind of felt like theft. I won't even mention the statue titled, "Michael Jackson and Bubbles." Seriously...
However, stepping outside the walls of the château, the huge gardens were incredible. I only scratched the surface of the Jardin, but it was a moving experience. The fountains, the manicured trees and plants, the paths, the canal, the birds in flight all around, the setting sun. It was perfect. Like the stained glass at Ste. Chappelle, it was almost too much beauty to handle. It's certainly too much to faithfully describe in words, or capture in a photograph. I definitely plan on returning soon to do some exploring.
The rest of the week was split between classes, meetings, and a few outings. Classes are all still going pretty well. They're picking up, as we're moving past the introductory stage, but they're only getting more interesting. I've noticed that the number of students is dwindling in the more difficult courses. Naturally. On monday, I found out my official placement for my internship this year. I will be working with an association called "Ni Putes Ni Soumises" --translated as "Neither Whores Nor Submissives" -- in the international section. It's an activist organization that works to counter violence against women, and to promote gender equality. I don't know exactly what my job will entail, but it will be an eye-opening year, for sure. I'll let you know more as I find out.
On wednesday night, Caroline and I took advantage of the free theatre tickets at the IES office, going to see a play called "La Folle Allure." It was a one-woman show. In French. So it was pretty strange. But well done. I guess. It was tough to understand a lot of it, but I got the gist of the story. The actress was definitely skilled, not to mention a real gymnast. At several points in the show, she suspended herself (sometimes with one leg, sometimes just a hand) from a metal swing set bar. Let's just say she was upside down a lot. Gotta love the French.
Friday, I had a meeting with the director of IES to talk about the Arabic class we're still looking for. If I can't find one in the end, I plan on taking a religious studies class at the Institut Catholique de Paris. We'll see how that turns out. Afterward, I met up with Caroline, Monica, and Melissa once more for a bit of touristic fun. We decided to head to the Louvre, using our awesome cartes louvre jeunes to gain free access to the museum. As it happened, we chose the right night to go. There were actors and musicians sprinkled about the wing we found ourselves in. Dressed in black or white, the actors gave monologues and duets about particular paintings or artists featured in the rooms. It was a very cool -- and very French -- way to learn a little bit of art history. So classy.
Today, I've just been chilling at home, watching videos of the debates. Interesting stuff, I tell you. Really, I'm just resting up before the big celebration tonight: Paris' Nuit Blanche 2008. It's the all-night cultural festival that inspired Chicago's Looptopia. From sunset to sunrise, the city will be host to musicians, artists, filmmakers, and speakers from around the world. There's so much to do, I don't have a clue where to start. I guess I'm just going to play it by ear. I'll definitely fill you in.
And finally, Love It or Leave It.
Reason to Love It: The cheese. I love it all, but chevre (goat) is my favorite. Delicious...
Reason to Leave It: The French idea of "customer service." Sometimes I'd just like a waiter at a restaurant to be... uh, nice to me, you know?
Happy Travels
-- Cody