Joyeux Noël!

I'll post about the trip soon. I promise.

Until then, enjoy this extremely serious little ditty.

Merry Christmas!!

free at last

I'm sitting in Dublin Airport at the internet kiosk between O'Brien's Gourmet Coffee and Handcut Sandwiches and McDonald's. To my left, I can see a bay of check-in desks, ticket counters and giant paper snowflakes through a huge window. In the bottom corner of this browser window there is a little timer telling me exactly how long I can stay online before I will be asked to put in some more change. As I'm cheap, there isn't much time left. So this won't be a huge post.

If you've been checking here recently, you've no doubt noticed how the ol' blog has been frustratingly barren the past fewweeks. That doesn't necessarily indicate that my life has been the same. Noooo. In fact, it's been quite the contrary. You see, I've just finally finished fall semester. I didn't write on here for a couple weeks because of several papers that were due and a final exam that I needed to study for. The end of the semester was basically hell. But it's all over now, and I'm free free free at last. That translates into two things: one bad & one good.

First, the bad: Because the vast majority of my friends were only enrolled at IES for fall semester, I had to say lots of goodbyes. That's always sad. I took part in some final weekend festivities, but when it came time to say aurevoir to some of my favorite people, I had a hard time. They know who they are. For a few of my really good friends, I just didn't want a definitive goodbye, so I opted to stay in with my host family wednesday night, the final night. I feel kind of bad that I didn't spend the evening with the friends, but I know I'll see them again.

Second, the good: As you may have guessed from the first line of this post, I've been doing some traveling. I flew out of Paris early thursday morning, heading to Rome to meet Will. His semester in Dublin had already finished, so he had already spent a couple days in Barcelona. I decided to join him for the final leg of his journey. We had a couple awesome days in the eternal city, then we flew up to Ireland. We took a bus from the Dublin airport straight to Galway, a big little city on the west coast of the island. We took the bus back to Dublin sunday afternoon. I've had a really great time with him.

But now I'm here, sitting in the airport with several hours to kill before my flight back to Paris. Will has already left for his return to the states. Like I mentioned before, I'm cheap so I don't want to spend too much on this internet. So I'll give you a little bit more detail on the trip to Italy and Ireland when I get back to the apartment.

Happy Travels
-- Cody

culture

WELL: I finished my Kerouac novel last night. I really enjoyed it in that kind of "whoa this crazy beat novel makes me want to go hitchhike somewhere imaginary and try hallucinatory drugs and be misogynistic" way. Yeah, it was a fun ride.

THE ONLY THING IS: I quit reading the only real "classic" French novel I've ever attempted (Le Capitaine Fracasse) to start on my Kerouac journey. So I guess that's not too good. I should probably be reading in French to keep my immersion level to a maximum, you know?

THUS: I started my decent into 17th century French comedy today. I grabbed an anthology of plays by Molière from the family bookshelf this morning. I decided to begin with L'École des Femmes, as I briefly studied it in my aesthetics class earlier in the semester, so I have a vague understanding of the plot. I like it so far.

MAN, AM I CULTURED OR WHAT?

hello winter

Well winter's here, and it doesn't matter if I like it or not -- it's made up its mind and is planning on staying a while. It's been pretty cold recently (So cold, in fact, that I've even started wearing my scarf. Now I'm not usually one for scarf-wearing, but it keeps me warm, and people tell me it makes me look infinitely more French. So I don't mind much). I have to be honest, though: French winter is not too terrible compared to the arctic months I've endured in Chicago. Here, it hardly ever snows. The clouds are content just spitting out half-frozen rain drops onto the Parisian rooftops. So until the spring awakening comes, I'll just have to tighten my coat, slip on my gloves, and brave the frigid spit spat drizzle.

While I was in Brussels last weekend, I had a bit of an epiphany. Well, I can't really say that it was my doing at all. It came in the form of an email from a dear friend of mine, Mark Tumbleweed Pedri. You see, I've been feeling kind of like I'm not making the most of my time here in Paris. The end of the semester looms on the horizon, so I'm starting to see how quickly the time passes. So I wrote to Mark, confident that he could show me the light. He wrote me a simple little morsel of advice he learned down under this semester:

"Write in a journal every night and do something everyday worth writing about that night. That's what I did and I don't have a single regret about anything."

Pretty simple, huh? And yet I couldn't seem to figure it out on my own. Well, I value the Tumbleweed's input, so I took the advice to heart. Over dinner with Caroline last week, we discussed this whole issue and decided that we'd better do something about it. So we wrote a list of things we still haven't done (or that we want to do again) in Paris, intending to cross every item off the list before the end of the semester comes and steals Caroline away back to the land of the free and the home of the brave. Since then, I've been trying to do something every day that is worth writing about. It doesn't have to be anything earth-shattering -- just something that I might want to remember ten years down the road. I'm feeling pretty good.

Here's an abridged list of some of the highlights from the week:

-- Pondering the hidden meanings behind the Galleries Lafayette Christmas windows

-- Amassing a large collection of French hip-hop and spoken-word/slam poetry albums, borrowed from the IES library

-- Heading off to explore the Cimitière du Montparnasse (Montparnasse Cemetery) only to spend the afternoon chatting with a completely random frenchman who claims to be a famous singer/actor/brother of Jacques Villeret

-- Exploring the Mantegna exhibit during yet another visit to the Louvre -- you can't see it all in one semester, I swear

-- French "Thanksgiving dinner" with all the other IES students. It wasn't terrible... I'll just leave it at that

-- Bad ass ukulele & banjo jam session along the banks of the Canal St. Michel with Joel after said Thanksgiving dinner

-- Getting to keep my sweet chest x-ray from the medical visit required for my residence permit (Let me know if you want to see what I'd look like with no skin on)

-- Bar hopping in the ever so softly falling snow

-- Sitting in on a random Chopin concert at the Eglise Ste. Merry

So there you have it. As the sky becomes a wintery shade of gray and the temperature outside starts to drop, I'm feverishly stoking the fire in my life. Just like the notes flying from a piano or the words escaping out of your mouth, I know time is fleeting. It's already the last day of November. With finals, winter break, and lots of traveling coming up, I know it will be spring semester before I know it. Let's just hope I can live it up while it lasts.

Happy Travels

-- Cody

Hustle & Bustle in Brussels

So, look at me: I've only been back in Paris for a little over an hour and I'm already updating the ole blog. How daring!

Well, Brussels was pretty darn sweet. Like most people will tell you, it's not quite as beautiful as a lot of other cities throughout Europe -- like Paris or Vienna, from my experience -- on account of its strange mix of architectural styles, but it is still a nice place. There are lots of old old buildings downtown, but then there is a decent amount of modern, industrial almost-skyscrapers. Honestly, there were times when I really felt like I was back in Chicago. The city had a very similar feel to it. The general feeling was not quite as "European" as I was expecting. but Brussels still has its charm. I definitely enjoyed my time there. Despite the crappy weather (snow!).

I got into Bruxelles (as the French call it) around 10 friday morning, found my way to my hostel, checked in, and then headed out for sightseeing. Of course I went straight for the Grand Place, Brussels' historic district. Descending ever so slowly into the tail end of November, workers were already out preparing the Place for the upcoming Christmas Market -- a European specialty. People were working feverishly among the old-as-centuries buildings, some attaching straw to the roof of a manger soon to hold the holy family, and some stabilizing the huge evergreen tree standing in the middle of it all. The Grand Place is always full of tourist, and rightly so. The buildings are incredibly detailed, covered in gold leaf and statues. Restaurants can be found just around just about every corner, but they all seem to cater to the tourist crowd -- tourists with wads of cash in their pockets, that is. I was not to be tempted. I found lunch in an out-of-the-way restaurant: salad, meatballs, and fries. Delicious.

For most of the afternoon, I simply meandered from historic sight to historic sight, keeping an eye on my whereabouts with a map I picked up from the hostel. I saw Manneken Pis, la Bourse (stock exchange), St. Michael's Cathedral, St. Catherine's, the touristy restaurants lining Rue des Bouchers, and the Galleries of the King and Queen, among many others. The whole time was filled with side wonders and lots and lots of chocolate shops. There's quite a bit to see and do in Brussels, and it's all very pedestrian-friendly. After dining at a pizzeria and exploring some more, I decided to call it a night. The weather was just not friendly at all. Rain rain rain. It was a good night to slip into bed a little early. Before sleep, though, I took the time to send off some postcards and a letter or two.

I woke up nice and early saturday morning, and made a game-plan for the day. I decided to follow a walking tour outlined in little crow's feet on my map. It started at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at the Congress Column just a couple blocks away from the hostel, so that's where I headed. When I got there, I saw lots of people milling about in military uniforms. Deciding to stay and see what was up, I soon heard what sounded like a marching music. Then, around the corner came a band, followed by four regiments of young men and women decked out in fatigues and rifles. I asked someone standing by me in the gathering crowd what was going on. It was apparently a celebration of the anniversary of the founding of the Military Academy in Brussels. Just before the ceremony started, and as snow began falling, a very important man (general of the army? maybe?) stepped out of a discreet black car, wearing a long trench coat and blue military beret. He presided over the events.

After the ceremony, I started off on my walking tour. I didn't finish, though, as the half-way point was my real item of interest: the Parc du Cinquantenaire. I wandered around the park and headed towards the Royal Army Museum, from where I could (supposedly) climb to the top of their Arc de Triomphe. Along the way, I saw a large makeshift building advertising a special exhibit. I went inside to find a collection of beautiful photos and information about Michelangelo's Pieta. It was very interesting to hear about just how perfect the work is -- he apparently made vast use of the Golden Ratio while carving the work. It really is fascinating. Next, I made it to the Army Museum, where I unfortunately could not climb the Arc. I did, however, find a very cool Aviation exhibit -- lots of airplanes, helicopters, and hot air balloons.

After a quick lunch at a nice little restaurant (the waitress was totally flirting with me, by the way), I went to meet up with Brianna and her friend at the National Basilica of the Sacred Heart. We toured the inside of the HUGE church, and then rode the elevator to the top, where we climbed outside to admire the view from around the enormous dome. While we snapped photos and caught up with each other's lives, the snow began to fall again. It was a very picturesque moment. Next, I headed out to see the Atomium, a 100-or-so meter high steel replica of an iron crystal made for the 1958 World's Fair. I had read that it's not quite as cool as it may seem, so I wasn't too disappointed when I arrived 15 minutes after closing time. I took a few quick pictures and headed back downtown for dinner. I did some last major sightseeing in the historic district, including the famous Delirium Tremens bar, and made my way back to the hostel. I sat in the hostel's Babel Bar for a while, sampling some more Belgian beer (so good), before hitting the hay.

This morning I woke up around 7:30, grabbed breakfast, and checked out. I made the rounds of the city one last time, then headed for the only site that was open and standing between me and the Brussels Midi train station: the Porte de Halle. It's an awesome tower that was formerly one of the only entrances penetrating the stone walls around the city. I toured the museum, climbed the huge, spiraling, stone staircase, and took one last view of the city from up high. Beautiful. I ended my time in Brussels trying to find the entrance to the train station among the HUGE flea market that apparently springs up on sunday mornings. That was a cultural experience in itself. I caught the train, and the rest is history.

So there you have it. I'm off now to do some homework before grabbing dinner with Caroline later. Oh, and I had some serious reading time on the train, so I'm getting deeper and deeper into my latest Kerouac novel. It really is incredible. Life-changing, really. Let me know if you want details. Until next time.

Happy Travels

-- Cody

bruxelles! bruxelles!

hey y'all --

just a quick post to let you know i made it to brussels just fine. oh, wait a minute... did i tell you i'm going to brussels this weekend? don't remember. either way, i'm here safe & sound.

i've been sightseeing all day, and i'm about to wander around some more before dinner. perhaps i'll check out the belgian nightlife. who knows? and fyi, according to the woman working in the tourist info center where i'm currently typing this: "asking where to get the best waffles in brussels is like asking someone in the states which mcdonalds is the best. they're all the same. and they're all just tourist food." so watch out.

anyway, i'm hanging out with brianna tomorrow. can't wait. i'll try to give you another update about what i've been doing here before i go back to paris. but if not, stay tuned for the more inclusive post-trip entry. a bientot.

happy travels

-- cody

Breaking Fall, Part 2 : Seducing Slovakia

And now, we join our hero as he prepares for his journey to Bratislava in

Part 2 : Seducing Slovakia (what does that even mean?)

Sunday morning, I got breakfast with another (newly-acquired) friend, Keith, from Dublin. Amidst discussions about the US, Ireland, traveling, etc., Keith mentioned he was heading to the Hofburg Palace. I decided to accompany him, as I was planning on going to the Hofburgkapelle (Hofburg Chapel) for mass before I left for Slovakia. Now, I normally wouldn't go to mass twice in one weekend, but this was a special case. The Hofburgkapelle just happens to be the home of the Vienna Boys Choir, who sing every sunday morning at the 9:15 mass. In the chapel, I attended mass in the tourist-full standing-room section. An actual seat costs upwards of 20€ and must be booked months in advance. Clearly, the choir is doing something right. They really were great. And they were accompanied by a small orchestra, so the music was just beautiful. It made me miss singing in a choir... man. During the mass, though, I got the feeling that a lot of people thought it was just a concert. Lots of camera-flashing, moving around, talking in hushed voices, and even a few confused faces when the priest offered communion.

After mass, I found my way to the Sudbahnhoff train station, bought a round trip ticket to Bratislava, and boarded the train. The ride was short and sweet through the Austrian countryside. I ended up talking to the girl sitting across from me in my bank of seats, but only after she made fun of me for falling asleep while the conductor was coming by to check tickets. He had to hit me on the shoulder to wake me up. The girl, Jasmina, found that pretty amusing. At the station, she offered to show me how to get to the Old Town area, where (I thought) my hostel was. Along the way, she pointed out a few important monuments, like the Presidential Palace, and the Slavin Memorial statue. She dropped me off and went on her way, and I started looking for the hostel. It took me forever to find it, as I really had no clue where to look. That was alright, though, because I got to explore Old Town. Finally, after 3 stops to ask people for directions, I found the hostel.

After checking in, I went back to exploring the city. The Old Town district is pretty awesome. It's full of little cobblestone alleys, random statues, fountains, and more tourists than I expected to find in Slovakia. Before sunset, I made the hike up to the top of the hill overlooking the city. At the top, I payed a visit to Bratislava Castle. It's pretty cool, though the people of the city apparently refer to it as the "upside-down table". I can see where they might get that idea. Unfortunately, I couldn't enter the castle, as the whole thing is undergoing a major reconstruction and renovation project. They are trying to restore the castle to the beauty it once had centuries ago, before wars and fires nearly destroyed it. They're doing a great job. Next, I tried continuing up the hill next door to find the tower holding the Slavin statue. Yeah, I didn't find it. But I did find a nice, big, residential neighborhood. I only came across a couple sketchy areas, so it was a pleasant (read: tiring) trek up the hill. Back in Old Town, I decided I'd better buy some kind of tourist guide to the city, so I stopped into a gift shop. That was a great purchase. I'll tell you now: I didn't get lost a single time after that.

After dinner, I went to a random free concert in a nice church. I felt somewhat underdressed, but I had a good time. Then I went back to the hostel, spent a little time at the piano in the lounge, wrote a couple letters, and slipped into bed. I felt like I should have done something a little cooler with my night in Bratislava, but honestly my feet needed the rest. I was exhausted. Needless to say, I slept very well.

I woke up monday morning a little after 8, showered, and went in search of breakfast. I found cheap eats (a ham and cheese croissant, a glass of o.j., and some coffee -- all for only 79 sk, less than 3€) then got on with some final sightseeing. I first headed to the House of the Good Shepherd to see the Museum of Clocks, but that was closed. I was really disappointed, as it sounded really interesting. Instead, I went to St. Martin's cathedral -- a centuries-old church in Old Town, which was the site of the coronations of countless rulers of the Austrian Empire. This place was beautiful, but it was kind of morbid. I went down a staircase in a side chapel to the crypt, where they have the coffins of several archbishops and members of an important family. The rooms smelled like cold stone and cut flowers. I resurfaced, going to another side chapel -- this one dedicated to St. John the Merciful. His remains (meaning his decomposing skeleton dressed up in saint clothing) are encased in a silver and glass coffin high above the altar. Creepy. But, even creepier: in front of a statue of St. Martin and a beggar, there is a large pane of bubbly glass on the floor. If you look just right through the glass, you can see down into a 13th- or 14th-century cemetery. You can actually see real skeletons, only partially buried in the dirt. We're talking skulls and rib cages. Not quite as artistically presented as the bones in Paris' catacombs....

Anyway, after some more sightseeing and lunch, I stopped back by the hostel to pick up my bags, then headed to the train station. Along the way, I stopped in the gardens behind the Presidential Palace. I caught my train (with perfect timing), and chug-chugged my way back to Vienna.

Back in Austria, I grabbed dinner. Then I met up with Keith again at the hostel. After chatting a while, we decided to make the most out of my last night in Vienna. We found a nice bar (the Bermuda Bräu) and sampled the local beer, discussing politics, Barack Obama(!), Scientology, and Paris. We didn't stay out too late, as I had to catch my return flight very early in the morning. In fact, I only slept about 2 or 3 hours before I had to get up again. I checked out, called a cab, and stepped onto the plane. And now I'm back in Paris. Back to the grind. Back to schoolwork and my internship. It was really nice spending some time away from it all, but I have to admit: I was relieved to be back in Paris. It's comfortable.

Happy Travels

-- Cody