17 October 2008
feeling like an american
14 October 2008
time is money (unless you're an unpaid intern, that is)
05 October 2008
La Nuit Blanche, or 7 Euro Bonbons? For Real?, or Why One Might Question the Sanity of the French
Last night was Paris' annual Nuit Blanche (White Night). Like I mentioned in my last post, Nuit Blanche is an all night celebration of art, culture, music, and performance. Churches, Métro stations, gardens, museums, and parks all throughout the city hosted events from sunset to sunrise. Boy, was it interesting...
After enjoying a home-made dinner of crêpes with my host sister, Nolwenn, and two of her friends, I made my choice about where to spend the evening. Based on timing, proximity to my family's apartment, and Caroline's preferences, I decided to go to the Centre Georges Pompidou (the inside-out building, remember?). The Center would be keeping the doors to its modern art gallery open all night long. This is where things got interesting. I arrived at the center quite a bit before Caroline was to join me, so I decided not to step into the huge line for the art gallery just yet. Starting to wander around, I came across a strange, almost airstream-like trailer with a bright neon sign on top reading, "Chambre(s) d'Hôtel" [Hotel Room(s)]. Nothing was really going on around it, so I didn't think much of it and continued on. But this unassuming little trailer will make another appearance in this post...
I then found my way to Église St. Merry, a church right next door to the Centre Pompidou. The church had been decked out for Nuit Blanche with lofty works of art, eery lighting, and various performers. When I first walked in, a dance group was just finishing up. I have to admit, it was a bit strange seeing hip hop dance in a centuries-old church. Up next, an awesome poet/actor/dancer(?) stepped into the spotlight. I'm not sure what to call what he did, but it might be similar to a French version of slam poetry. Anyway, he concluded his set with this soul-shaking quote:
-- "Moi, je suis Henri Marche. Et vous -- vous aussi -- Vous êtes Henri Marche..."
-- "Me, I'm Henri Marche. And you -- you as well -- You are Henri Marche..."
How true, how true... After this revelation, I did some more wandering. As fate would have it, I found myself back at the trailer. This time, I was in for a treat. Whatever company that was responsible for the presence of the trailer had begun their show for the evening. A large window on the side of the trailer that had once been obscured by a white curtain now revealed 2 women and a man inside, moving and dancing about with blank expressions on their faces. This, ladies and gentlemen, was my first experience with "performance art." From what I gathered from the abstract acting and trance-like music, the piece was about some sort of prostitution ring, or maybe domestic violence witnessed by a hotel cleaning lady, or maybe murder as a result of a love triangle? Maybe? It's hard to say. All I really learned was that the French might be nuts. Here's a short clip of the performance. I'll let you decide what it's about:
29 September 2008
1 down. 8 to go.
26 September 2008
Photos galore
I discovered Picasa Web Albums today. It's way less complicated than what I was using before, and it has a much larger capacity. So I'll be using Picasa from now on. You can find the links to all my pictures to the left, under Mes Photos.
Enjoy
-- Cody
25 September 2008
Call me a chameleon...
I've finished my first week of classes. Generally interesting, midly frustrating, and most certainly tiring, my courses cover a pretty broad range of subjects. My first course of the week is my internship seminar, which doesn't actually start until the week after next. So for now, I've got a hole in my schedule. My first real class is Traduction (Translation). I can already tell this is going to be difficult. It's tough trying to translate idioms and very specific turns of phrase from my native English into my not-so-native French, but I am bound to learn a lot from it. The next course on my academic menu is called Questions d'esthétique, or Questions of Aesthetics. Depsite having to study 18th century operas, I enjoy this class immensely. Our professor is very knowledgeable, entertaining, and not too difficult to understand. And finally, there is my course on Institutions et vie politique de l'Union Européenne (Institutions and political life of the European Union). My professor is an energetic, young Italian man with an Italian accent to match. His is probably my toughest course. I've only studied a small bit of political science and economy at DePaul, so I've got my work cut out for me. But this is also probably my most important course in terms of relevancy, as A) I'm currently living in the European Union, and B) France currently holds the presidency of said union.
I've heard a lot of other students grumbling about their professors or courses in general, which is normal at any school, but I don't really see their reasons. Ok, I admit that some lectures might be a bit disorganized, but that has pretty much been my whole experience with this trip. Everything seems a bit vague, a touch last-minute-ish. So I've made the necessary adjustments and continue on with life. It's all a question of adaptability. Some of you may know that I pride myself on being adaptable. Call me a chameleon.
Speaking of adjustments, I've noticed that it's getting a whole lot easier for me to comprehend large amounts of the French language all at once. Class lectures aren't quite as mentally taxing as they once were. Newspapers don't look quite as much like minefields of unknown words as they used to. And my host family doesn't have to slow down their speech quite as much anymore (I think). While I am by no means fluent, it's definitely getting easier. All this suggests to me that total immersion in a language really does breed understanding. Which makes me very happy that I chose to study here for a whole year.
Apart from my classes, this week has been decent. I've gone on a couple outings, shared meals with good friends, and gotten to know the city a little better. Last night, returning from yet another trip to Place St. Michel for dinner, my friends and I stopped to watch a dance group on the sidewalk. They had set up shop right next to a Métro station, drawing a formidable crowd. They were supposedly "break dancers," but I wasn't too terribly impressed. A couple of them were very good. Literally, only a couple. The rest (all 5 or 6 of them) had dance moves only slightly more complex than if I were to become their choreographer. Still, they entertained the crowd, so they've got something going for them. We didn't stick around too long, wisely slipping down the stairs to the Métro just before the dancer holding his upside-down hat could ask us for money. I would feel bad if the dollar were a bit stronger. Maybe.
And now on to a new segment in my blog I like to call, "Love It or Leave It." Here, I will give one reason for which I adore Paris, and one for which I might find myself tempted to leave this city. I'll try to do this as often as I can. It might be interesting to see how my opinions change throughout the year. I guess we'll have to wait and see.
Anyway, here it is: Love It or Leave It.
Reason to Love It: All the random musicians in the Métro. Guitars, accordions, mandolins, harps, keyboards -- you name it, I've seen it played on a train or in a station.
Reason to Leave It: Feeling so out of the loop concerning American politics and news in general. Yeah, I usually complain about the petty arguments in campaign ads at home. And yeah, I find local news reports tiresome and depressing most of the time. But damn it, I miss it all.
(ok, I know I can read the news online and whatnot, but it's just not the same...)
With that, I bid you adieu.
Happy Travels
-- Cody
22 September 2008
Wesh, mon frère
Creepy, huh?
Well apparently, the catacombes underneath Paris hold the bones of millions of people. That's a lot of skeletons. And nightmares. Like I said: creepy. I thought it was a very interesting part of French history, but I definitely would not advise those with weak constitutions to venture down into the skull-lined tunnels. If you enjoy morbid quotes, however, I strongly recommend a visit. There are plaques all around the tunnels with sayings from several authors. Here's one of my favorites:
or:
"Think in the morning that you might not make it to the night, and at night that you might not make it to morning."
I made the trip to the "empire of the dead" this past Thursday with a friend of mine from class. We had already eaten lunch, but I still had a couple hours to kill before my academic meeting with the IES director. So knowing the catacombs were only about 5 or 10 minutes from the IES center, I suggested a trip.
This is pretty much how the past week has gone for me. With my days of free time slowly slipping away before the start of classes, I tried to get out more and see the city. I've probably been down to Place St. Michel and the surrounding district four or five times now, but it's just such an interesting area. My host father told me he wasn't surprised. He said it's kind of like Picadilly Circus in London, only better (because it's in Paris?). Place St. Michel has a great big fountain and lots of pubs and restaurants that tourists adore. It also happens to be located in the famous Latin Quarter. So you can't go wrong with a visit here.
After snapping some obligatory "on top of the world" photos, I headed down to the street with a group of IESers to take a tour of the city on one of those big, red, double-decker buses. It was nice to be able to see so many sights without lifting a foot. Just sit back, relax, and take in the city. Also, the head phones they gave us let us listen to the tour in not only English or French, but also Spanish, Japanese, and Russian. Which always makes things more interesting, right?
Sunday was the "Journée de la Patrimoine" (or something like "Heritage Day"), so just about all the national monuments and museums in Paris were open for touring. I hit up the Place des Vosges, only a 20-30 minute walk from my apartment. There, I visited the home of Victor Hugo, world famous French author. If you've seen the Hunchback of Notre-Dame, you know his work. It was pretty interesting. I mean, it's a house. So I don't know how interesting it can be. Granted, it was in an awesome area of Paris, and Victor Hugo was an amazing author. But I can only handle so many historically-acurate sitting rooms and parlors.
Which must be why I proceeded straight to the Musée Carnavalet, located in an old palace in the Marais district. In case you're wondering, this museum is pretty much the same as the Victor Hugo home, just with fewer pictures of Mr. Hugo, and more portraits of the aristocracy. So needless to say, I didn't stay long. I did, however, manage to take quite a few pictures at both places. And to prove to you that I actually went there, I made it a challenge for me to take as many self-portraits as I could in the many mirrors lining the walls of the museums:
Before my adventures in old-living-room-land, my host brother taught me my new favorite phrase in French: Wesh, mon frère. It's the equivalent of "Yo, my brother" in English. But, as Nathou put it (in French), "If you happened to be in the suburbs in the 80s or 90s, you might have heard people saying this." Apparently, it sounds ridiculous to the French today. Which is why I made a vow to use this expression as often as possible. I greeted the family with a jolly wesh this evening before dinner, and my host mother told me I sounded very French. Score.
The rest of today, I've just been catching up on some writing -- in my journal, on here, and on some post cards. I'm going to try to hit the hay early tonight, as my Translation course starts at 9 am tomorrow. Oh, and my only other class tomorrow -- Political Life in the European Union -- doesn't start until about 4:00, so let's hope I find something worthwhile to fill my time with.
I'll be putting up some pictures of the past week sometime soon. And yes, there will be more skeletons. And more self-portraits in 18th century mirrors. Stay tuned.
Happy Travels,
-- Cody